Paris
Brother-in-law Hidalgo’s (Maneng) return ordered a long time ago – Send Rizal power of attorney as soon as possible – The Paris Universal Exposition – High price of food – Rizal’s sculpture exhibited – Regarding the attractions, “there are so many, many things to speak and talk about that many sheets of paper would not be enough.” – A Javanese village – Rizal’s daily routine in Paris – Asks for family news– If Trining is still in college, take her out of there immediately.
* * *
10 Rue de Louvois
Paris, May 16, 1889
My dear Parents and Brothers:
They wrote me from Spain, telling me that the return of Maneng was already ordered a long time ago; I suppose that he should be there by now. He may, therefore, send me as soon as possible a power of attorney, not for a lawsuit, but to draw up a criminal complaint to the Supreme Court, so that similar abuses will not be repeated.
The Exposition opened on the 6th of this month. We went there, Luna, Valentin Ventura, D. Justo Trinidad, Abarca and I. We saw President Carnot and the other gentlemen who now lead the destiny of France. There were so many people that despite the presence inside the Exposition of a great number of restaurants we could hardly secure a piece of bread and a piece of cheese which we had to take standing, and without water nor drinks. The piece of bread and the piece of cheese cost one peseta, the bread was very small and the cheese as big as a pocket watch. It is said that there were people who paid 5 francs for a piece of bread. We were more fortunate.
I made a bust and exhibited it in the Salon de Paris. I was fortunate that they accepted it. They said that they are strict on foreigners, so much so that two of our countrymen were later on refused participation.
With regard to the attractions of the Exposition, I do not know if I will venture to describe them to you, because there are so many, many things to speak and talk about that many sheets of paper would not be enough. There is a Javanese town with its small houses, restaurants, theater, dances, music, etc. The people are of the same race as ours, and we almost understand each other: they speak Malayan and I, Tagalog. We were thinking of eating one day in the karihan,[1] all of us Filipinos who are in Paris, with wives, young ladies and children. For the occasion we shall have sinigang[2] and bagoong; now we don’t know how much it will cost us.
In the dance, there are four young people as big as Silvestra, the maid and goddaughter of my poor sister Olimpia, the one from Albay, and even similar in appearance. They dance a kind of Subli,[3] although it seems to me they are less graceful than our countrymen. They paint themselves yellow and are fantastically dressed. The music is played with bamboo instruments to the accompaniment of drums. All the men chew betel nuts and they wear a handkerchief tied to the neck; they are also small and look much like those in Tondo. They are not as robust nor as gay as our country folks. The houses are neither better constructed as ours, although they have more industries: they make hats, dye cloth, etc. When I entered the barrio for the first time (one pays 16 cuartos) I thought I was in Mamatid[4] or in Parian.[5] The sun was shining, there were plenty of nipa houses here and there. However, the chickens, pigs and dogs were missing.
My daily life in Paris is spent in the following manner: one or two hours in the gymnasium and in fencing, three or four in the library, the rest I use up in writing and visiting friends. This is not followed on the days when I go to the Exposition and at those times only two
hours at night are left for the gymnasium and fencing. Thus, I keep up my health. My brothers-in-law and my nephews should not forget to practice with the bars and the cane. Every other night, from 8:00 to 11:00 we meet in a cafe where we play chess. On Saturdays I am invited to eat at Luna’s house, on Sundays at Mrs. Juliana’s, and on Fridays I visit the family of Boustead
(also a Filipino) where sometimes I take tea.
I am sending there, for my brother, some French and Spanish newspapers.
You are not writing to me about Trining and you don’t tell me if she still continues in college.
You must take her out of there as soon as possible. If she is still there take her away immediately.
When you write, give me news about every one of the family, of my brothers-in-law and nephews.
Nothing more for the present, love to all.
In the next mail I shall write letters for mother.
Yours,
J. RIZAL
03-394 [Reformists]
[1] Tagalog for restaurant.
[2] Fish boiled with sour fruits or leaves, to serve as soup.
[3] A folk-dance common in Batangas province. The dancers are active all throughout its 13 movements.
[4] A barrio between Kabuyao and Kalamba, Laguna.
[5] A place outside the walled city of Manila, set aside by Governor G. Ronquillo in 1580, for the Sangleys (Chinese) to live in and conduct their business. Originally there were four buildings which were known as the silk market. It is now occupied by the Metropolitan Theater, Plaza Lawton, the Post Office, the National Press Club and Chamber of Commerce of the Philippines (1960’s).